New Project: 1860-65 Peignoir

In the fall, Victoria and I are going to be doing Pioneer Farms again, and this time I want to be much better prepared.  Last year, it had been so long since I'd done an event that I only had two dresses and I barely eeked out the second one.  This year, I really would like to have a few new things and one of those items is this lovely peignoir, or wrapper.

Check out more images of the original here.

Sometime last year I found this reproduction stripe which I felt would be a fairly close approximation to the original, and here the other day, I pulled it - along with a plain, cream colored cotton which I already owned - out of my closet and decided the time had come.  Now, I could have sprung bigger bucks on a high-end cotton, but to be honest, I am trying to use more of my stash wherever possible, and this project fit the bill.  I comfort myself with the knowledge that it is just wrapper, and plain cotton will suit it just as well as a fancy cotton would.

I've already got my printed stripes cut out.  Next up is cutting bias strips out of the cream for all that piping and cut strips for facing the vertical trim on the bodice.  I'm going to cheat and only face the trim to about 2" below the waistband, which is where the trim appears to attach on both sides.  From the shoulder to that point below the waistband, the trim is only attached on the inside, or center, edge.

I truly hope to post more as this thing comes together, so stay tuned.


Scene in the Past said...

Yay, you're making it! It's going to be great!

Oh - you asked me about some tricotine, didn't you? I'm so sorry I didn't answer. Life was so crazy that week I was doing good to *read* my e-mail, let alone respond.

Tricotine is a "triple twill," so it's a precise kind of twill weave that you can find a definition for. Twill wools have all sorts of other issues for historical uses, because IIRC from the SA, clearly visible twill weaves were not (or very rarely) used for women's garments in the 1860s. The discussion came up in context of gabardine, which is a strongly-visible twill if it's labeled correctly.

The point I carried away from the discussion is that *all* twill weaves aren't necessarily a problem; it's the ones that have the strongly visible diagonal lines that probably should be avoided. True gabardine also has a rather "hard" surface that's probably not best for gowns.

I have used tricotine for three things: a blue 1940s dress, a pink 1780s dress, and the red Regency dress. (The last two are on my blog.) The blue tricotine had the most obvious twill. The pink had a more subtle twill, but the "wrong" side had virtually no twill at all. So I used the "wrong" side as the right side. I did the same for the red gown, which was actually even a nicer tricotine (softer and lighter weight). The twill was a little more visible even then, but I don't think it was obvious at all.

I'm not sure if that's much help, but that's about the extent of my knowledge and experience of tricotine. So far, all my gambles with it have paid off - it's *lovely* fabric to work with.

OldFashionGirl said...

Oh wow! Can't wait to see it! How fun that will be.

Emma said...

That fabric is amazing! I love it and can't wait to see the final result.

Andrea said...

That is a beautiful peignoir. Could you also call it a wrapper? I really can't wait to see the progress as you make your own.

Amanda Bolton @ Split-Site PhD said...

Oh my, I’ve never worn nor seen that kind of dress in person but I often saw it in movies. I think the fabric fine and likewise stunning. It looks like your inspirational design too. I really can’t wait the finished work. Hope you could post results soon. See ya!

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Jessica said...

Love the fabric.

Unknown said...

Your works are great :D Good job

Sadie said...

Oh, oh. Can you make a pattern for that? Pretty please? It's lovely.

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